Snake Tracking Trip – 18th ISE Congress, Marrakech, Morocco

On Saturday, May 18th, as part of the 18th International Congress of Ethnobiology program, a group of ethnobiologists was led on a snake-tracking practical experience at Sidi

Bou Othmane is a mountainous region nearly 30km north of Marrakech, Morocco. The field trip was led by senior snake charmer and expert, Abbas. After a short briefing, the

group left the Cadi Ayad Campus at nearly 9h30am in a mini-van. We soon arrived at our destination, the first slopes of Sidi Bou mountains. As an ethnobiological activity focused on ecological and natural history knowledge and practical field skills that are necessary for searching, tracking, and finding snakes, we followed Abbas as he quickly started to walk and search for snakes in the landscape. Our team knew that, as a snake expert and hunter, and not a mountain guide, we should follow Abbas in his search for snakes. Our role (Juarez Pezzuti, Hakima Drissi and Silvia Storchi), as conveners of the activity was to con-

sider group cohesion and safety, and to ask key questions for all animal evidence found by Abbas. Hakima acted amazingly in the role of translating from Arab to English and vice-versa. Abbas was informed that we were interested not only in snakes, but in every animal track, sign, and vestige that he could find and show us.

But there were no tracks on the landscape, strictly speaking. The substrate, completely covered with rocks of different sizes, was far from adequate for registering footprints, crawls, sneaking or tail drags. However, Abbas did not need them to find snakes. Hunting for them since he was nine years old in the region, Abbas had the searching image for snake shelter and tirelessly turned stones and examined every suspicious space between rocks. Do-

ing so for decades, he was able to identify and interpret every animal or animal sign found in the hidden substrate, as well as in the inner side of the rock. His knowledge was far beyond the species of interest, the snakes, and included lizards, spiders, scorpions, insects, pupae, as well as evidence of small mammals. Other signs of animal presence were spread everywhere along the landscape. Hollows, eaten seeds, and droppings announced the presence of foxes, mice, gerbils, and several bird species. Abbas is also a great instructor, describing all animal evidence, and showing and explaining how to interpret nature signs.

And indeed, one snake was found and collected by Abbas, for his purpose and use.

The activity was also enriched by Abbas’ exceptional communication ability and willingness to teach, and by the trained curiosity, comments, and contributions coming from our

attendants, including about the snake charming profession and art, and about Abbas´ life history. Below we list some highlights:

– Abbas has been visiting and searching for snakes in the mountainous area of Sidi Bou Othmane since he was nine years old. He learned from his father and uncle, both snake

charmers and hunters.

– six years had passed since his last visit to the region. He noticed that the animals are decreasing in the region, which is becoming increasingly dry. He showed the remains of seeds

eaten by gerbils beneath rocks that he turned over to find snakes. According to Abbas, these kinds of seeds were not frequently consumed by rodents, and they are doing so

now in the absence or scarcity of their preferred food.

– Throughout his professional life, Abbas accounted for over 50 snake charmers that died as a consequence of snake bites. No tourists died or were injured by snakes.

– Abbas shares the snake charming space at Jemma Al Fnaa Square in Marrakech Medina with other 76 snake charmers who work daily. Abbas is also one of just six snake trackers and harvesters in Marrakech that regularly catch and bring new snakes to Marrakech for the snake-charming touristic activity.

– every snake exposed during a day at Jemma Al Fnaa is then left in home for 12 days. Each snake charming team has a second small room outside and from a considerable distance from the family´s house.

– Abbas travels twice a year, for an average of one week at a time, to the Sahara Desert with one more partner to hunt snakes, Cobra specifically, and catch between four and six specimens.

– non-dangerous snakes are also necessary and collected continuously during snake hunting trips.

After the excursion, we returned to the van that was parked in a house from a family known by Abbas for a long time. The head of the household invited, insisted, and brought us to a large and comfortable room covered with carpets and plenty of cushions. Abbas’s friend offered us tea, freshly baked bread, and delicious lentils. After thanking him and his family, we returned to Marrakech delighted with this special day that was crowned with such loving hospitality.” – Juarez Pezzuti

Photo credit: Silvia Storchi

Copyright © 1988-2024, All Rights Reserved